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Dakota Johnson's Makeup in 'Materialists' Is a Lesson in Cool-Toned Beauty

Dakota Johnson stands in front of a crowd in a white silk shirt.

Beauty

TSS Talent

Emma Strachman

Cool-toned makeup is having a moment—most recently on the set of "Materialists."

Dakota Johnson sits inside a New York City yellow taxi cab wearing a white shirt and jeans

Dakota Johnson on set of 'Materialists', photographed by Atsushi “Jima” Nishijima

With its starry love triangle, "Materialists" may be director Celine Song's ode to — or perhaps, critique of — classic Y2K romcoms. But if we’re talking about the story's protagonist, Lucy (played by Dakota Johnson) and her look for the film, makeup artist Emma Strachman looked back even earlier, to the nineties, the golden era of supermodels and cool-toned glam. 

Cool-toned makeup has experienced a revival in recent years, thanks to TikTok, IT-girls like Lily-Rose Depp, Charli XCX, the model Gabriette, and launches from Huda Beauty and Makeup by Mario. For Strachman, however, the decision to go to the cooler side of the cosmetics spectrum for Lucy’s makeup wasn’t based on trends — it was based on the film’s overall color palette. Song described "Materialists" as a "silver movie," according to costume designer Katina Danabassis, a very specific note that influenced everything from the set design to the costuming. After seeing the navy, black, and neutral work ensembles Danabassis pulled together for professional matchmaker Lucy, Strachman knew she needed to echo those tones in the makeup. 

When putting together her mood boards for Lucy, Strachman’s starting point were the queens of cool-toned cosmetics, the nineties supermodels. "There’s a lot of Christy Turlington and Kate Moss, as well as some of the Olsen twins from back in the day because I liked that effortless makeup that’s not overly glamorized," Strachman explains. French actresses from the '60s and '70s also served as inspiration for Lucy’s look. "For me, I'm drawn to that type of beauty; women are strong but they also feel a bit more pedestrian, which was my goal for this film."

A four-color eye shadow palette featuring different shades of grey

Victoria Beckham Beauty Multi-Finish Eye Wardrobe in Night Flash

"We used this smoky eye palette from Victoria Beckham," says Strachman. "It’s reminiscent of nostalgic palettes from brands like Hard Candy and Urban Decay, but powders are really beautiful and so nice to blend."

Victoria Beckham Beauty

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A tube of the Armani Beauty liquid eye shadow in chestnut, a shimmering chocolate brown, against a white background.

Giorgio Armani Beauty Eye Tint Long-Lasting Liquid Eyeshadow in Chestnut

"These liquid shadows are a staple for me, I use them on everybody for everything. They are so wonderful: they're pigmented, they blend really well, they have a variety of finishes. We stuck to a couple different colors for Lucy, mainly the mauve-y and cool-brown tones, including the shade Chestnut, a soft taupe.

Giorgio Armani Beauty

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Giorgio Armani Eye Tint Long-Lasting Liquid Eyeshadow

Giorgio Armani Beauty Liquid Eyeshadow in Beige

Strachman also relied on this cool beige hue throughout filming.

Giorgio Armani Beauty

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A lip pencil in a soft pink shade against a white background

MAC Lip Pencil in Whirl

Strachman kept a collection of lip liners on hand for Lucy, including this classic pencil from MAC. The brand describes Whirl as "dirty rose," which is just another way of saying "cool-toned pink."
The Victoria Beckham Beauty eyeliner pencil in no. 2 on a white background

Victoria Beckham Beauty Lip Definer in No. 2

Victoria Beckham’s Lip Definer is quickly becoming a makeup artist favorite. Case in point: Strachman used a couple of them on "Materliasts," including No. 02, a cool beige-y pink that never errs too yellow or chalky.

Victoria Beckham Beauty

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The Victoria Beckham Beauty eyeliner pencil on a white background

Victoria Beckham Beauty Lip Definer in No. 4

Deeper in tone, shade No.4 can best be described as a taupe-y mauve color.

Victoria Beckham Beauty

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A tube of the Westman Atelier cream blush - a pink tone in a pale gray tube.

Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Petal

"We loved a cream for Lucy," says Strachman, and this dusty rose hue from Westman Atelier was spot-on for the overall cool-toned color palette. "The finish feels softer and more hydrated, and because I'm on set all day, I could just pop a little powder on top for touch-ups if needed."

Westman Atelier

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A tube of the Fresh Tinted LIp Balm in a rosy-pink shade against a white background

Fresh Sugar Lip Balm Hydrating Treatment in Petal

An iconic formula that’s been around since the early 2000s, Strachman layered a few of the tinted shades over liner for Lucy's work look. Peony is a dusty rose pink great for fair and light skin tones, while Plum is a cool-toned, red-tinged purple perfect for medium to darker skin tones.

Westman Atelier Lip Suede Matte Lipstick in Ja Rêve

A tube of the Westman Atelier Suede Matte lipstick in Ja Reve - a medium rose color
"We loved the lipsticks and used them to bump up Lucy’s makeup look for the wedding scenes, says Strachman, who used Je Rêve on Johnson. The velvety matte formula comes in 15 shades with plenty of other cool-toned neutral options, including Rose, Petal, and Figue.

Westman Atelier

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