How the Hair Team For 'Love Story' Pulled Off Sarah Pidgeon's CBK Blonde Transformation
Beauty
Beauty
Hair stylist Barry Lee Moe and colorist Kari Hill break down how they created Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's signature blonde look on Sarah Pidgeon.
Sarah Pidgeon may now and forever be synonymous with the late Carolyn Bessette Kennedy thanks to her star-making turn in FX’s addictive limited series “Love Story,” but it should be known that it took two of the best hair experts in the industry and over 20 hours in the chair to facilitate her on-screen transformation. Hairstylist Barry Lee Moe and colorist Kari Hill are who have to thank for the covetable Bessette blonde that is sure to be the most in-demand look in salons this spring.
But before you book an appointment, it needs to be known that the series covers two distinct hair eras—Besette’s warm, buttery blonde with a deeper dimension of her Calvin Klein days and the brighter, more polished look she opted for once she became a public figure. The process of transforming a very brunette Pidgeon for both looks was multi-pronged and product-heavy, as the styling duo explained to The Set Set. Below, we’ve outlined everything you need to know to achieve the internet’s most talked-about hairstyle, right down to Pidgeon’s hair-washing routine and bathroom cabinet essentials.
The Coloring Technique
Celebrity colorist and Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador Kari Hill’s assignment on set was more complicated than simply deciding on a shade. Rather, she was tasked with creating a multi-dimensional blonde that would hold up under high-definition cameras without compromising the integrity of Pidgeon’s previously dark hair. “The beauty of Carolyn’s blonde was the intentional placement of the color. It was never a flat, single-process blonde,” Hill says. “There were deeper tones beneath the surface and brighter ribbons of buttery blonde layered throughout, which created that signature richness when the hair moved or was worn up.”
Throughout the course of the show—which follows Bessette from her early days at Calvin Klein to the aftermath of her marriage with JFK Jr.— the character’s blonde evolves to form two distinct entities. The character is introduced to the viewer with a buttery, lived-in blonde and ends the series with a cleaner, more expensive-looking blonde shade. The subtle shift mirrors societal trends in hairstyling as dying techniques modernized throughout the ‘90s. “In the ’90s, blondes were much warmer—more butter or soft gold—because that was the healthiest level of lift most professional lighteners could achieve at the time,” Hill explains.
Barry Lee Moe, who styled Pidgeon’s hair, characterizes the first look as a “dark, dimensional blonde with bold, chunky highlights throughout the face frame” and says he styled in “easy, effortless waves” that were achieved by having Pidgeon sleep in braids the night before shooting. For this look, he found himself returning to two photos of Bessette, a Polaroid photo taken at the CK offices where her hair looks “so effortless” and a snap of Bessette sitting among her friends at one of the iconic green booths at New York dining hotspot Indochine. This photo became an intentional reference, mainly because of how evocative it is. “Her hair is tossed to the side, and you can feel the energy of the room. There’s a lot of magic in that photo and a lot of information about her hair,” Moe says.
Throughout shooting, Moe advised the actress to be “very intentional about wash days, heat protection, supplements, and products. “Moisture and hydration are key to maintaining the health of the chemically treated hair, and we had a great maintenance routine in place. Weekly masks, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils were a must!”
While the real Bessette’s hair colorist, Brad Johns, made a career out of using the “chunking method,” a technique that concentrated three highlight foils around the front of the face and a few beneath for visibility in updos, Schwarzkopf and Hill have coined their precision foiling method “Foiled Cashmere.” Inspired by the softness of a cashmere sweater, it relies on very precise full-head foiling combined with bespoke gradient toning to create soft contrast and a trio of newly improved Schwarzkopf products.
Sarah Pidgeon as Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in "Love Story."
Hill adopted a gradual approach to Pidgeon’s coloring sessions, with the initial one lasting 20 hours. “Lightening hair is one of the harshest chemical processes we can put our hair through,” Hill says, “which is why the quality of the lightener matters so much.” The colorist encourages all prospective blondes to inquire about the quality of bleach applied to their hair, as not all bleach is created equal. “We’re very thoughtful about the skincare products we use to protect our skin barrier, but consumers rarely ask what lightener is being used during a color service,” she notes.
On the internet, influencers and media outlets are quick to label Bessette’s look “quiet luxury” or “moneyed,” which is not necessarily wrong. “It looks expensive because it is,” Moe says. “The best blondes come with a price tag because the maintenance is a commitment.” However, the quality of dyed blonde hair has as much to do with diligent maintenance as it does expensive products.
Get Sarah Pidgeon’s Official CBK Hair Routine
“It’s actually quite easy for everyone to achieve at home. It’s 4 braids, some leave in conditioner, and a good night’s sleep.” - Barry
- Lightly mist damp or dry hair with leave-in conditioner, distributing from mid lengths to ends with a wide-tooth comb.
- Loosely section the hair into four quadrants, one for each braid, and loosely braid each section, securing the ends with a small band.
- Set your hair texture with a good night’s sleep.
- Remove braids and rake fingers through hair to break up the sections.
- If any areas need some love, bump and blend the waves with a flat iron or waving iron.
- Finish with texture spray and a good upside down hair flip.
- As for the rest of the week, supplement your nightly routine with masks and hair oils.
