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Indigenous Designers Shine Front and Center in ‘North of North'

Fashion

Costume designer Alex Reda consulted with and drew inspiration from a myriad of Inuit designers to dress Siaja for life in the Arctic. 

“North of North” is back on Netflix for a second season, and Siaja (Anna Lambe) has returned to the screen with a colorful new selection of parkas fashioned by Inuit designers across the Arctic. The show’s fictional setting—filmed in the Nunavut territory of Canada—allowed costume designer Alex Reda to pull inspiration from a handful of different Indigenous communities. “The great thing about Ice Cove not being a real place is that we were able to use different influences from different parts of the Arctic,” Reda says. During his research, Reda found that the stark whiteness of the Canadian Arctic encouraged the locals of Iqaluit to dress colorfully, as often displayed on their parkas. 

Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Maika Harper and Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Reda took a parka-first approach to outfit construction, creating sketches for each core character and sending them to local artists throughout the Arctic. One of his favorite parkas is the long purple ‘Mother Hubbard’ coat we see on Siaja in the first episode, created in collaboration with costume consultants Pia Churchill and Melissa McDonald. “The fur around the hood is a combination of wolf and wolverine woven together to create a sunburst pattern, which is a really ancient pattern that not very many people know how to do anymore,” Reda explains. Another standout parka is Siaja’s half maroon, half floral number, adorned with a hand-dyed burgundy sealskin trim. “I love that combination of almost an old chintz fabric, in combination with the kind of sturdy and utilitarian parka fabric,” Reda says. “It's kind of this soft and hard contrast between the two.” 

Siaja completes every outfit with a pair of intricate, dangly earrings sourced from Indigenous designers. “[Sometimes Inuit women will] start with a pair of earrings and coordinate a whole look around them to match,” Reda says. His order of operations took the inverse, while still privileging the jewelry. For season two, Reda ended up sourcing hundreds of pairs of earrings to ensure that every woman had a pair, or two or three.

Reda enjoyed mixing contemporary trends into otherwise traditional Arctic wear. “If we had done this show 30 or 40 years ago, pre-online shopping, it would have been a very different experience,” Reda explains. “But because of how we live now, everyone is able to order things online to create looks.” For Siaja’s outfit at the ‘Bridgerton’-inspired Winter Ball, she layers a corseted red bodice over an off-the-shoulder gauzy white chiffon dress. While the dress was custom-built for the show, Reda commissioned Indigenous artist Heather Dickson to create a matching earring and choker set from tufted caribou, seal skin, rawhide, and feathers. For the back of the dress, he implemented a design inspired by a caribou’s mouth palate. “[The caribou] shape is used a lot in Inuit clothing, and so I took that inspiration and added it to her ball gown,” Reda says.

When Siaja travels to Toronto to meet her sister, Olivia (Kesha Allurut), her wardrobe adopts a modern edge without betraying her proudly-Inuk aesthetic. “When you're in a big city in the middle of winter, it's very grey, and so I wanted to make it feel like she wasn't in Ice Cove anymore,” Reda says. For the duration of her time in the city, she wears all-black outfits, adorned with sleek fur or feathers, and a “sleek modern take on the parka” in a fitted turquoise silhouette.

Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Kesha Allurut and Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

Anna Lambe in "North of North."

Netflix

When Siaja joins Olivia for a night of dancing and drinking on the town, she borrows her sister’s clubwear. “Because she was gonna be in a nightclub environment, I wanted shine and texture that would read on camera in a darkly lit room,” Reda says. He opted for a sequin halter top with a black feather mini skirt. “I love the feathers because it kept some element of Inuit style or inspiration,” Reda says, envisioning the feathers as an homage to the many ravens he saw on set in the Arctic. 

Whether it’s teeth from a caribou or feathers from a raven, Reda’s goal for the season was to incorporate as many Inuit elements as possible into the costume design. “We hired more Inuit artists to create pieces, as opposed to taking a contemporary piece and just adding a piece of fur,” Reda says. Sometimes, Iqaluit workers on set lent a hand in creating culturally-authentic garments. For the Winter Ball, Reda sourced gowns and accessories from local closets, creating cohesive looks out of a modge podge of different elements. One cast member even custom-made a grey brocade dress trimmed in seal fur for an extra at the ball. To finish the look, Reda accessorized the handmade dress with earrings and a beaded necklace.

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